Beatniks

Beatniks were suggested to be far out of the mainstream society during the late 1950s and early 1960s.

Audrey Hepburn in 1950s. Black and white were dominant this trend. Women usually wore jumper dresses and skinny jeans or leggings (including opaque stockings and fishnet) Embellishment and funky accessories sometimes necessary for Beatniks style for example berets and sunglasses.

Betsey Johnson fall 2008, the black and red jumper dress with belt was inspired by the Beatniks style. The stocking and sunglasses were essential to complete this trend.

Emporio Armani fall 2008, the black outfit could be indicated as Beatniks trend. With embellishment all over the outfit considered being more modern style. Again accessories are quite important for Beatniks trend, which included beret, sunglasses, black stocking, and flat shoes.

this strapless black dress was

Teddy Boys

Teddy Boys were born in the 1950s when rock 'n' roll was first introduced. 

This picture was taken in 1962, a group of teds. Teddy boys trend was inspired by the Edwardian style. Men wore dark shades tailored jackets with velvet trim collars, high-waisted trousers and slicked back hair style.

Givenchy by Alexander McQueen for spring 2001; this teddy girl look is similar to teddy boy style. The drape jacket and high-waisted drainpipe trousers are common outfits for this street trend.

Jens Laugesen fall 2008; this is a good example of the teddy boys trend that reemerged last year. The tailored jacket with velvet trim collars and trousers that show colorful socks are the main item for teddy boys style.

Zoot Suits

Zoot suits were popular among youth in the late 30s and 40s.

Un Pachuco con Su, 1943

The zoot suits, the symbol of the "Pachuco" uniform featured a knee-length coat, wide lapels, and exaggerated padded shoulder. The trousers were wide and tighter at cuffs.

Edward James Olmos as "El Pachuco", 1979

Accessories included a wide-brimmed pancake hat and a long gold chain hanging down to knees.

John Galliano spring 2000 ready to wear; the suit was inspired by the zoot suit, which could be seen from the long coat, wide trousers, and a chain. He mixed this street trend with his outrageous style with big ruffles collar and fancy fabric. 

John Galliano spring 2002 ready to wear; another collection that Galliano had incorpoarated zoot suits trend. The wide padded shoulders, lapels, and trousers are major symbols of this street trend.

At the CFDA award in 2008, Ashley Olsen wore a high waisted and loose trousers that fitted at cuffs. This reminds me of the fashion trend of women in the zoot gang.

Historical & Artisitic styles

BAROQUE ART

Dresden Frauenkirche, Germany, 1743 and reconstructed in 2005

Baroque Art (1600s) characterized by less complex, realistic, and

dramatic style. It was encouraged by the Catholic Church.From left: Comme des Garcons AW2006, in this collection Rei Kawakubo incorporates baroque jacquard in almost every piece. This menswear tailored jacket has baroque detail on puffed sleeves(Victorian style). Basso&Brooke AW2009, the whole collection is inspired by baroque and rococo. They use fresh colors in flowers and prints of details from architecture, the combination creates quite dramatic looks.

CUBISM

 Pablo Picasso, The Poet 1910

Cubism (1908-1940)concept is the essence of three dimensional objects can be fragmented and redefined from multiple points of views simultaneously. From left: Comme des Garcons SS2007, the black top was cut into pieces and then reconnected with red organza and red tulle skirt. Yohji Yamamoto AW1991, this set of wooden pieces is jointed with hinges in order to make a vest and a skirt with black wool lining. This outfit resembles the costume for the role of the manager in Parade, a ballet performed by the Ballets Russes in 1917, which Pablo Picasso designed the costumes.

FUTURISM

Gino Severini, Armoured Train in Action 1915

Pierre Cardin 1968

Hussein Chalayan SS07

Futurism (1909-1944),a technological era, which was a self-invented art movement where machines and motion were the core subject. From above: Pierre Cardin in 1968, the designer of future. This picture is one of the Space Age collection, which he incorporated science and technology. Skin-tight catsuits worn with 60s mini-skirts, chunky necklaces, and plastic goggles maybe the future fashion outfits. Hussein Chalayan SS2007, one of his amazing collections. Like Cardin, he likes to play with science and technology. For this collection's finale, it's a series of mechanical dresses, which abstractedly changed from one era's style to another. In this video I took from Design museum in London, the long and layered v-neck dress was transformed into short day dress with sweetheart neckline and cap sleeves.

ART DECO

American Radiator Building, 1924

Art deco (1920-1930), decorative art that included the using of intense colors in angular and geometric shapes. From left: Proenza Schouler AW2007 and Missoni pre-fall2009. The patterns of both outfits are bold and simple geometric shapes. They are also in shade of red and black. Proenza Schouler dress is made from pleated chiffon, while Missoni whole outfit is knitwear from legging to jacket. Although these two dresses have different construction, they both represent art deco style from the twenties. 

OP ART

Bridget Riley, Fete 1999

Optical art (1950-1960) uses patterns and colors to create vibrating effects. It is a form of abstract art. From left: Emilio Pucci SS2009 and Nathan Jenden SS2009. Both Emilio Pucci and Nathan Jenden dresses consisted of repeated colorful abstract patterns, which represented op-art style. They make the viewer wants to look closer to the details and materials. The mediums of repetition of these two dresses were different. Patterns on Emilio Pucci dress was made by print while Nathan Jenden dress was made from many pieces of circular synthetic fabric.

MINIMALISM

Dan Flavin, Site-specific 1996

Minimalism (1962) is a term used to describe simplicity in content and form, which stripped down to its most fundamental aspects. From left: Jil Sander AW2009 and Calvin Klein AW2008. Simple yet elegance could be descriptions for these two dress, which correspond to the concept of minimalism. The shape of both dresses are more like sculptural curves, hourglass, which signify femininity and stong. To me both designers, Raf Simon and Francisco Costa, are considered being intellect minimalists. 

Geneology of a Garment_Pointed Shoes

1720 - 1730

Unknown designer, British

Green and ivory silk damask with ribbon-ties and the tongue with red leather-covered "Louis" heel.

I took this picture from V&A museum. This thick, curved heel and pointed toe characterized the shoe silhouette among British women during the early 1700s.

1880

From the Darnell Collection

Brown leather with embroidery and metal work.

Although the style of shoes became simpler with slender and lower heels, they are very narrow in order to shape the foot, which was preferred among the gentry.

1954

Christian Dior evening shoes designed by Roger Vivier.

Black silk with black tulle at the center front.

During 1950s, pointed shoes with stiletto heels were very popular. The silhouette of luxury footwear remains similar to the previous period except the heels, which become more tapering.

2000 - 2004

Yves Saint Laurent evening shoes designed by Tom Ford

A pair of t-strap evening shoes with high heel pumps.

This pair of evening shoes is decorated wit

h crystal on the uppers and heels. The pointed toe shape became more rounded than the past.

Fall 2009

Jil Sander designed by Raf Simons

Black leather with platform pumps.

Rewardless of the style, the silhouette of pointed toe shoes can be referenced from the earlier 21th century. It is more likely that, nowadays, the shoes will be decorating with distinct details of heel, sole, and platform rather than changing the whole silhouette.

Historical Tailored Garments

Robe a la francaise from France, 18th century. The whole dress was made from ivory lyons silk striped brocade with floral pattern of chenille with stomacher of matching fabric.

House of Lachasse, the best of British tailoring. The structured suit was from 1951, it was made from fine Irish wool with brigand collar. The suit was tailored to emphasize the curvaceous of women figure.

Ralph Lauren's "Ladies man" 1992. This lean pinstripe tailored suit with bowler hat, silk tie, and fob chain looked very masculine but fitted on the waistline to show more women figure.

Historical Draped Garments

During Ratanakosin period in Thailand (around 1800s) Women from royal family usually wore brocaded tube skirts with thin silk fabric, which wrapped around the chest and draped over one shoulder as undergarment. Then covered with embroidered fabric.

Jeanne Lanvin; This Robe de style draped garment was made in 1921. Pink organdy bodice and overskirt with white organdy embroidered border. The split center front skirt reveals the underskirt of silk taffeta in blue.

Hanae Mori, who is famous for silk organza caftan with prints during the 70's. This silk kimono printed with butterflies with yellow asymmetry obi belt were at the opening of her retrospective show at the Latin American House in Paris during October 2006.