Saturday, May 2, 2009

Nu-Rave

Nu-Rave is about dance party with electronic music and light shows.
Bright color and lights are very common in this street trend. Light shows seemed to be important feature especial LED shows. Rave style also include the use of neon colors, text screened t-shirt, tight pants, leggings, leg warmer, and spandex. The whole theme is about party and having a great time.
Christopher Kane spring 2007, the use of bright colors in this collection was inspired by the Nu-Rave trend, which usually incorporated fluorescent colors.
Fashion East fall 2007, the neon printed t-shirt with tights is also popular among Nu-ravers. The whole look would represent very colorful theme with a hint of black.

Goth

Goth or Gothic fashion trend emerged in the early 1980s.
Picture of Siouxsie Sioux in 1980s who was particularly influential on the dress style of the Gothic rock scene. Black, black , and black from head to toe. Men sometimes wear dark make up, dye hair, and paint their nails black. Goth fashion can be identified by the appearance of black leather clothing, lace, black leather thigh boots, fishnet stocking, and accessorized with spiked dog collars, lace corset, gloves, and silver jewelry that depicting religious .
Alexander McQueen spring 2007, he has been associated with the goth aesthetic. Black dress with exaggerated headpiece gives the feeling of mourning, which could be a description for Goth style.
Yigal Azrouël fall 2009, the whole black look is considered as a Goth style. Especially, the black leather boots, which are very attractive, remind me of Siouxsie Sioux, the gothic fashion icon.

Friday, May 1, 2009

Hip Hop

Hip Hop originated with African-American style in 1980s.
The picture above, DMC, was taken in mid 1980sThe style includes oversized baggy trousers, tracksuits, bomber jackets, and sneakers. And those were usually came in many colors. Heavy jewelry (such as gold robe chains) and big sunglasses were the main accessory items. Sportswear brands like Adidas and Nike attached themselves to the emerging Hip Hop scene.
Christian Dior fall 2003 couture, the loose baggy and colorful trousers were inspired by the Hip Hop trend from the 80s. This look could also be viewed as punk too, from the fishnet to the make up.
John Galliano fall 2005, again, the baggy trousers from Galliano were influenced from Hip Hop street style. This is more like a modern Hip Hop look as we can see some celebrities mixing blazer or tailored jacket with baggy trousers nowadays.

Punk

Punk was in London in the early 1970s.  It was about youth rebellion, anarchy, music, and DIY fashion.
This picture was taken by Günter Zint in Fulda in 1989. The trashed drainpipe jeans with patterns printed on and t-shirts with the X-rated slogans printed on, vinyl pants, leather clothing, hair which had to be as outrageous as possible, and piercings were the must-have. Heavy footwear like Dr. Martens was very popular Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren, British designers, seem to be the one who responsible for the trend. 
Givenchy fall 2008; The black outfit with a lot of chains necklaces signified Punk style. Tight black leather pants and military-like boots were also common in this street trend.
Luella fall 2009, for this look, the Punk style could be seen from the Mohawk hairstyle to the black leather boots with zippers. Black patents polka dots were all over the dress, which could be viewed as a modern Punk style.
In addition, for Prada fall 2009, the footwear was inspired by Punk style as we can see from the use of studs and Mohawk fringing at the heel.

Disco

Disco looks began in the 1970s. Disco clothes were never for work, but for a weekend of fun, posing and dancing. 
Serge Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin, 1976. The Disco trend was famous for its hot pants look and Spandex tops. Moreover, Gold lame, leopard skin and stretch halter jumpsuits and white and pastel colors clothes that glowed in Ultra Violet lights also symbolized Disco fashion.
Lawrence Steele fall 2002, the gold lame jumpsuit was very popular in the Disco style because of its shiny surface that would reflect with the lights.
Diane von Furstenberg spring 2007, she often uses a lot of colors and patterns on fabrics. White and pastel colors were often used in Disco fashion.

Thursday, April 30, 2009

Hippies

Hippies or Flower Power era, a movement born in the early 1960s.
Jefferson Airplane, mid 1960s. Although Hippies style was related to independent and freedom, the silhouette was more loose and flow. Hippies clothing item could include the Afghan coats, Romanian and Indian peasant embroidery, Nehru jackets, and loose flowing robes. Some might call this trend as Ethnic look. Later on, this look developed into Bohemian eclectic ethnic style.
Y&Kei spring 2008, this white loose shirt with fringes trim was influenced by Hippies trend.
Anna Sui spring 2009, the ethnic embroidery on the dress is considered being Hippies style. The scarf with fringes trim tied around the waist also gives Hippies look.
Gucci resort 2009, the maxi dress  with loose and flowing silhouette is popular among Hippies trend.

Mod

Mod or Modernist, a subculture originated in London in the late 1950s to mid 1960s.
Twiggy Lawson, 1960s. Since Teddy boys and Beatniks had already paved the way in fashion during that era, Mod also adopted some of the past fashion. Tailored jackets with narrow lapels and military parkas were worn by men. Some men would even put on eyeshadow and eyeliner. For women, printed/color-blocked dresses and mini-skirts with flat shoes were very popular and they would put little makeup.
Missoni pre-fall 2008; the whole collection was inspired by mod sixties. Minidress with black stocking could be seen throughout the 1960s.
Oscar de la Renta resort 2007, polka dots prints were very popular among mod style. This street trend usually incorporated mini-dress or mini-skirt with op art prints. The look seemed to be inspired by the famous fashion icon, Twiggy.

Beatniks

Beatniks were suggested to be far out of the mainstream society during the late 1950s and early 1960s.
Audrey Hepburn in 1950s. Black and white were dominant this trend. Women usually wore jumper dresses and skinny jeans or leggings (including opaque stockings and fishnet) Embellishment and funky accessories sometimes necessary for Beatniks style for example berets and sunglasses.
Betsey Johnson fall 2008, the black and red jumper dress with belt was inspired by the Beatniks style. The stocking and sunglasses were essential to complete this trend.
Emporio Armani fall 2008, the black outfit could be indicated as Beatniks trend. With embellishment all over the outfit considered being more modern style. Again accessories are quite important for Beatniks trend, which included beret, sunglasses, black stocking, and flat shoes.
this strapless black dress was

Teddy Boys

Teddy Boys were born in the 1950s when rock 'n' roll was first introduced. 
This picture was taken in 1962, a group of teds. Teddy boys trend was inspired by the Edwardian style. Men wore dark shades tailored jackets with velvet trim collars, high-waisted trousers and slicked back hair style.
Givenchy by Alexander McQueen for spring 2001; this teddy girl look is similar to teddy boy style. The drape jacket and high-waisted drainpipe trousers are common outfits for this street trend.
Jens Laugesen fall 2008; this is a good example of the teddy boys trend that reemerged last year. The tailored jacket with velvet trim collars and trousers that show colorful socks are the main item for teddy boys style.

Tuesday, April 28, 2009

Zoot Suits

Zoot suits were popular among youth in the late 30s and 40s.
Un Pachuco con Su, 1943
The zoot suits, the symbol of the "Pachuco" uniform featured a knee-length coat, wide lapels, and exaggerated padded shoulder. The trousers were wide and tighter at cuffs.
Edward James Olmos as "El Pachuco", 1979
Accessories included a wide-brimmed pancake hat and a long gold chain hanging down to knees.
John Galliano spring 2000 ready to wear; the suit was inspired by the zoot suit, which could be seen from the long coat, wide trousers, and a chain. He mixed this street trend with his outrageous style with big ruffles collar and fancy fabric. 
John Galliano spring 2002 ready to wear; another collection that Galliano had incorpoarated zoot suits trend. The wide padded shoulders, lapels, and trousers are major symbols of this street trend.
At the CFDA award in 2008, Ashley Olsen wore a high waisted and loose trousers that fitted at cuffs. This reminds me of the fashion trend of women in the zoot gang.

Saturday, April 11, 2009

Historical & Artisitic styles

BAROQUE ART
Dresden Frauenkirche, Germany, 1743 and reconstructed in 2005

Baroque Art (1600s) characterized by less complex, realistic, and
dramatic style. It was encouraged by the Catholic Church.From left: Comme des Garcons AW2006, in this collection Rei Kawakubo incorporates baroque jacquard in almost every piece. This menswear tailored jacket has baroque detail on puffed sleeves(Victorian style). Basso&Brooke AW2009, the whole collection is inspired by baroque and rococo. They use fresh colors in flowers and prints of details from architecture, the combination creates quite dramatic looks.

CUBISM
 Pablo Picasso, The Poet 1910

Cubism (1908-1940)concept is the essence of three dimensional objects can be fragmented and redefined from multiple points of views simultaneously. From left: Comme des Garcons SS2007, the black top was cut into pieces and then reconnected with red organza and red tulle skirt. Yohji Yamamoto AW1991, this set of wooden pieces is jointed with hinges in order to make a vest and a skirt with black wool lining. This outfit resembles the costume for the role of the manager in Parade, a ballet performed by the Ballets Russes in 1917, which Pablo Picasso designed the costumes.

FUTURISM
Gino Severini, Armoured Train in Action 1915

Pierre Cardin 1968

Hussein Chalayan SS07

Futurism (1909-1944),a technological era, which was a self-invented art movement where machines and motion were the core subject. From above: Pierre Cardin in 1968, the designer of future. This picture is one of the Space Age collection, which he incorporated science and technology. Skin-tight catsuits worn with 60s mini-skirts, chunky necklaces, and plastic goggles maybe the future fashion outfits. Hussein Chalayan SS2007, one of his amazing collections. Like Cardin, he likes to play with science and technology. For this collection's finale, it's a series of mechanical dresses, which abstractedly changed from one era's style to another. In this video I took from Design museum in London, the long and layered v-neck dress was transformed into short day dress with sweetheart neckline and cap sleeves.

ART DECO
American Radiator Building, 1924

Art deco (1920-1930), decorative art that included the using of intense colors in angular and geometric shapes. From left: Proenza Schouler AW2007 and Missoni pre-fall2009. The patterns of both outfits are bold and simple geometric shapes. They are also in shade of red and black. Proenza Schouler dress is made from pleated chiffon, while Missoni whole outfit is knitwear from legging to jacket. Although these two dresses have different construction, they both represent art deco style from the twenties. 

OP ART
Bridget Riley, Fete 1999

Optical art (1950-1960) uses patterns and colors to create vibrating effects. It is a form of abstract art. From left: Emilio Pucci SS2009 and Nathan Jenden SS2009. Both Emilio Pucci and Nathan Jenden dresses consisted of repeated colorful abstract patterns, which represented op-art style. They make the viewer wants to look closer to the details and materials. The mediums of repetition of these two dresses were different. Patterns on Emilio Pucci dress was made by print while Nathan Jenden dress was made from many pieces of circular synthetic fabric.

MINIMALISM
Dan Flavin, Site-specific 1996

Minimalism (1962) is a term used to describe simplicity in content and form, which stripped down to its most fundamental aspects. From left: Jil Sander AW2009 and Calvin Klein AW2008. Simple yet elegance could be descriptions for these two dress, which correspond to the concept of minimalism. The shape of both dresses are more like sculptural curves, hourglass, which signify femininity and stong. To me both designers, Raf Simon and Francisco Costa, are considered being intellect minimalists. 

Wednesday, March 25, 2009

Geneology of a Garment_Pointed Shoes


1720 - 1730
Unknown designer, British
Green and ivory silk damask with ribbon-ties and the tongue with red leather-covered "Louis" heel.
I took this picture from V&A museum. This thick, curved heel and pointed toe characterized the shoe silhouette among British women during the early 1700s.


1880
From the Darnell Collection
Brown leather with embroidery and metal work.
Although the style of shoes became simpler with slender and lower heels, they are very narrow in order to shape the foot, which was preferred among the gentry.

1954
Christian Dior evening shoes designed by Roger Vivier.
Black silk with black tulle at the center front.
During 1950s, pointed shoes with stiletto heels were very popular. The silhouette of luxury footwear remains similar to the previous period except the heels, which become more tapering.

2000 - 2004
Yves Saint Laurent evening shoes designed by Tom Ford
A pair of t-strap evening shoes with high heel pumps.
This pair of evening shoes is decorated wit
h crystal on the uppers and heels. The pointed toe shape became more rounded than the past.

Fall 2009
Jil Sander designed by Raf Simons
Black leather with platform pumps.
Rewardless of the style, the silhouette of pointed toe shoes can be referenced from the earlier 21th century. It is more likely that, nowadays, the shoes will be decorating with distinct details of heel, sole, and platform rather than changing the whole silhouette.