Thursday, April 30, 2009

Hippies

Hippies or Flower Power era, a movement born in the early 1960s.
Jefferson Airplane, mid 1960s. Although Hippies style was related to independent and freedom, the silhouette was more loose and flow. Hippies clothing item could include the Afghan coats, Romanian and Indian peasant embroidery, Nehru jackets, and loose flowing robes. Some might call this trend as Ethnic look. Later on, this look developed into Bohemian eclectic ethnic style.
Y&Kei spring 2008, this white loose shirt with fringes trim was influenced by Hippies trend.
Anna Sui spring 2009, the ethnic embroidery on the dress is considered being Hippies style. The scarf with fringes trim tied around the waist also gives Hippies look.
Gucci resort 2009, the maxi dress  with loose and flowing silhouette is popular among Hippies trend.

Mod

Mod or Modernist, a subculture originated in London in the late 1950s to mid 1960s.
Twiggy Lawson, 1960s. Since Teddy boys and Beatniks had already paved the way in fashion during that era, Mod also adopted some of the past fashion. Tailored jackets with narrow lapels and military parkas were worn by men. Some men would even put on eyeshadow and eyeliner. For women, printed/color-blocked dresses and mini-skirts with flat shoes were very popular and they would put little makeup.
Missoni pre-fall 2008; the whole collection was inspired by mod sixties. Minidress with black stocking could be seen throughout the 1960s.
Oscar de la Renta resort 2007, polka dots prints were very popular among mod style. This street trend usually incorporated mini-dress or mini-skirt with op art prints. The look seemed to be inspired by the famous fashion icon, Twiggy.

Beatniks

Beatniks were suggested to be far out of the mainstream society during the late 1950s and early 1960s.
Audrey Hepburn in 1950s. Black and white were dominant this trend. Women usually wore jumper dresses and skinny jeans or leggings (including opaque stockings and fishnet) Embellishment and funky accessories sometimes necessary for Beatniks style for example berets and sunglasses.
Betsey Johnson fall 2008, the black and red jumper dress with belt was inspired by the Beatniks style. The stocking and sunglasses were essential to complete this trend.
Emporio Armani fall 2008, the black outfit could be indicated as Beatniks trend. With embellishment all over the outfit considered being more modern style. Again accessories are quite important for Beatniks trend, which included beret, sunglasses, black stocking, and flat shoes.
this strapless black dress was

Teddy Boys

Teddy Boys were born in the 1950s when rock 'n' roll was first introduced. 
This picture was taken in 1962, a group of teds. Teddy boys trend was inspired by the Edwardian style. Men wore dark shades tailored jackets with velvet trim collars, high-waisted trousers and slicked back hair style.
Givenchy by Alexander McQueen for spring 2001; this teddy girl look is similar to teddy boy style. The drape jacket and high-waisted drainpipe trousers are common outfits for this street trend.
Jens Laugesen fall 2008; this is a good example of the teddy boys trend that reemerged last year. The tailored jacket with velvet trim collars and trousers that show colorful socks are the main item for teddy boys style.

Tuesday, April 28, 2009

Zoot Suits

Zoot suits were popular among youth in the late 30s and 40s.
Un Pachuco con Su, 1943
The zoot suits, the symbol of the "Pachuco" uniform featured a knee-length coat, wide lapels, and exaggerated padded shoulder. The trousers were wide and tighter at cuffs.
Edward James Olmos as "El Pachuco", 1979
Accessories included a wide-brimmed pancake hat and a long gold chain hanging down to knees.
John Galliano spring 2000 ready to wear; the suit was inspired by the zoot suit, which could be seen from the long coat, wide trousers, and a chain. He mixed this street trend with his outrageous style with big ruffles collar and fancy fabric. 
John Galliano spring 2002 ready to wear; another collection that Galliano had incorpoarated zoot suits trend. The wide padded shoulders, lapels, and trousers are major symbols of this street trend.
At the CFDA award in 2008, Ashley Olsen wore a high waisted and loose trousers that fitted at cuffs. This reminds me of the fashion trend of women in the zoot gang.

Saturday, April 11, 2009

Historical & Artisitic styles

BAROQUE ART
Dresden Frauenkirche, Germany, 1743 and reconstructed in 2005

Baroque Art (1600s) characterized by less complex, realistic, and
dramatic style. It was encouraged by the Catholic Church.From left: Comme des Garcons AW2006, in this collection Rei Kawakubo incorporates baroque jacquard in almost every piece. This menswear tailored jacket has baroque detail on puffed sleeves(Victorian style). Basso&Brooke AW2009, the whole collection is inspired by baroque and rococo. They use fresh colors in flowers and prints of details from architecture, the combination creates quite dramatic looks.

CUBISM
 Pablo Picasso, The Poet 1910

Cubism (1908-1940)concept is the essence of three dimensional objects can be fragmented and redefined from multiple points of views simultaneously. From left: Comme des Garcons SS2007, the black top was cut into pieces and then reconnected with red organza and red tulle skirt. Yohji Yamamoto AW1991, this set of wooden pieces is jointed with hinges in order to make a vest and a skirt with black wool lining. This outfit resembles the costume for the role of the manager in Parade, a ballet performed by the Ballets Russes in 1917, which Pablo Picasso designed the costumes.

FUTURISM
Gino Severini, Armoured Train in Action 1915

Pierre Cardin 1968

Hussein Chalayan SS07

Futurism (1909-1944),a technological era, which was a self-invented art movement where machines and motion were the core subject. From above: Pierre Cardin in 1968, the designer of future. This picture is one of the Space Age collection, which he incorporated science and technology. Skin-tight catsuits worn with 60s mini-skirts, chunky necklaces, and plastic goggles maybe the future fashion outfits. Hussein Chalayan SS2007, one of his amazing collections. Like Cardin, he likes to play with science and technology. For this collection's finale, it's a series of mechanical dresses, which abstractedly changed from one era's style to another. In this video I took from Design museum in London, the long and layered v-neck dress was transformed into short day dress with sweetheart neckline and cap sleeves.

ART DECO
American Radiator Building, 1924

Art deco (1920-1930), decorative art that included the using of intense colors in angular and geometric shapes. From left: Proenza Schouler AW2007 and Missoni pre-fall2009. The patterns of both outfits are bold and simple geometric shapes. They are also in shade of red and black. Proenza Schouler dress is made from pleated chiffon, while Missoni whole outfit is knitwear from legging to jacket. Although these two dresses have different construction, they both represent art deco style from the twenties. 

OP ART
Bridget Riley, Fete 1999

Optical art (1950-1960) uses patterns and colors to create vibrating effects. It is a form of abstract art. From left: Emilio Pucci SS2009 and Nathan Jenden SS2009. Both Emilio Pucci and Nathan Jenden dresses consisted of repeated colorful abstract patterns, which represented op-art style. They make the viewer wants to look closer to the details and materials. The mediums of repetition of these two dresses were different. Patterns on Emilio Pucci dress was made by print while Nathan Jenden dress was made from many pieces of circular synthetic fabric.

MINIMALISM
Dan Flavin, Site-specific 1996

Minimalism (1962) is a term used to describe simplicity in content and form, which stripped down to its most fundamental aspects. From left: Jil Sander AW2009 and Calvin Klein AW2008. Simple yet elegance could be descriptions for these two dress, which correspond to the concept of minimalism. The shape of both dresses are more like sculptural curves, hourglass, which signify femininity and stong. To me both designers, Raf Simon and Francisco Costa, are considered being intellect minimalists.